Isan and regional markets food guide
Isan food is known for heat, fermented fish, and grilled chicken with sticky rice. It fits eaters who will order som tum Thai first, then try poo plara on purpose.
Photo: BeautifulMedia (CC BY 4.0)
Isan cooking is papaya salad, minced-meat larb, grilled chicken, and sticky rice. The heat is not a Bangkok tom yum. Order som tum Thai first. Poo plara adds crab and fermented fish. A 2026 plate in a Bangkok Isan room is often 60 to 140 THB. Khao niew at 10 to 22 THB is the utensil, not a side you skip.
You do not have to fly to Ubon to eat this well. Named Bangkok rooms do the work. If you are in Pak Chong after Khao Yai, the night market is gai yang at 60 to 120 THB. Trat and the east islands are seafood, not Isan, unless the cook is from the plateau.
Specialties
- Som Tum Thai
- Som Tum Poo Plara
- Larb Moo
- Gai Yang
- Nam Tok
- Tom Saap
- Khao Niew
- Ubon night market
- Khao Yai grill
- Chang and Kood seafood
Som Tum Thai ส้มตำไทย
Green papaya, peanut, and dried shrimp. Order this first. Thai hot is a different plate. Somtum Der on Sukhumvit 49 is the named Bangkok room. 80 to 140 THB.
Somtum Der, 5/3-5 Soi Sukhumvit 49, Khlong Tan Nuea, Bangkok
11:00 to 22:00 · 80 to 140 THB
Som Tum Poo Plara ส้มตำปูปลาร้า
Crab and fermented fish. The Isan plate, not a first som tum. Jae Koy on Phetchaburi 12 is the named Ratchathewi room. 60 to 100 THB.
Jae Koy Somtum, 362/2-3 Phetchaburi Rd between sois 12 and 14, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400
10:00 to 04:00 · 60 to 100 THB
Larb Moo ลาบหมู
Minced pork salad with toasted rice. Isan larb is hotter than the northern version. Order it at Jae Koy or Somtum Der. 80 to 120 THB.
Jae Koy Somtum, 362/2-3 Phetchaburi Rd, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400
10:00 to 04:00 · 80 to 120 THB
Gai Yang ไก่ย่าง
Gai yang is charcoal grilled chicken with sticky rice and jaew. Sabai Jai Gai Yang is at 87 Sukhumvit 63 (Soi Ekkamai 3), Khlong Tan Nuea, not on Samsen. A small bird is about 100 THB, and a large bird is about 200 THB.
Sabai Jai Gai Yang, 87 Sukhumvit 63 (Soi Ekkamai 3), Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
10:30 to 22:00 · 100 to 220 THB
Nam Tok น้ำตก
Grilled-beef salad in the same herb family as larb. Sticky rice on the side. Soi Sukhumvit 38 late rooms. 80 to 140 THB.
Isan rooms on Soi Sukhumvit 38 late strip, Phra Khanong
17:00 to 02:00 · 80 to 140 THB
Tom Saap ต้มแซ่บ
Hot and sour pork-bone soup meant for sharing. It is not tom yum. Victory Monument west alleys still cook it at 80 to 150 THB.
Isan shophouses, Victory Monument west alleys, Ratchathewi
10:00 to 20:00 · 80 to 150 THB
Khao Niew ข้าวเหนียว
Sticky rice is the utensil. Order a basket with every grill and ask for khao niew, not jasmine. 10 to 22 THB.
Any Isan grill; ask for khao niew, not jasmine
With the grill · 10 to 22 THB
Ubon night market อุบลราชธานี
If you are actually in Isan, night markets beat hotel buffets. Plates 40 to 80 THB.
Ubon Night Market, Khammalai Rd, Ubon Ratchathani 34000
17:00 to 22:00 · 40 to 80 THB
Khao Yai grill เขาใหญ่
Pak Chong night markets are the grill stop after a Khao Yai park day. Gai yang and som tum run 60 to 120 THB.
Pak Chong night market, Mittraphap Rd, Pak Chong, Nakhon Ratchasima
17:00 to 22:00 · 60 to 120 THB
Chang and Kood seafood ตราด
Trat and the east islands. Price squid by weight. 80 to 200 THB if you ask first.
White Sand Beach restaurants, Koh Chang, Trat 23170
11:00 to 21:00 · 80 to 200 THB
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- How hot is som tum?
- Thai is already hot. Poo plara is hotter and funkier. Say thai less spicy if you want to finish the plate. Western spicy is still a chilli count.
- Do you need to go to Isan to eat this?
- No. Bangkok Isan rooms are the first-trip move. Go to Ubon or Pak Chong when the park or the Mekong is already the trip.